(This post is a slightly revised version of something I posted two years ago. My sentiment has not changed one iota since the original post and I thought they were important enough to repeat.)
Cast your memory back to Thanksgiving of 2008. Can you remember which specific wines you had with dinner?
I am sure that most people won't be able to remember, except maybe that they had a Pinot Noir or a Riesling. They are unlikely to recall the specific producer or much else about the wine. What they are more likely to remember is the good (at least hopefully it was good) time you had, the family and friends that shared your table. You might remember whether the food and wine was good or bad. But the specifics may be foggy.
Every year at this time, you will see plenty of magazine, newspaper and online articles that provide specific wine recommendations for Thanksgiving. If you read several of them, you may realize that they present quite a diverse choice of recommendations. There are few types of wine that someone does not recommend. I could do the same here, provide more such recommendations. But do you really need that?
I don't think so.
The more I thought about it, the more I realized that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they do not blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work. And few wines are going to so blatantly clash.
A Thanksgiving meal is diverse, with many different flavors, from savory to sweet, and many different textures. No single wine is a perfect pairing with all these different dishes. So you need wines that people will enjoy in of their own right. I don't think too many hosts are seeking the "perfect" wine pairing. They simply want something that people will enjoy and which won't greatly detract from the food.
Plus, who will remember the wines next year?
We must also remember that any wine shared with good friends and family is likely to taste better, or at least seem that way, than one drank alone. The circumstances of the day, the good feelings, the fond memories, the thanks for the past year, will all lead to your wine seeming better. And it is all those urrounding circumstances that people will most remember about Thanksgiving. The wine will always take the back seat.
The wine is simply an extra, not a necessity. It pales in importance to everything else about the holiday. Like the Whos from "The Grinch Who Stole Xmas", there should still be joy even if all of the food and wine have been taken away.
I will probably bring a variety of wines to my Thanksgiving feast, a mix of sparkling wine, white, red and dessert wine. In general, I will pick interesting and delicious wines that I feel people will enjoy. I won't spend much time worrying about pairing them with specific dishes and foods.
I just want wines that will make people smile.
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Friday, November 13, 2009
Hinomaru Brewery: Manabito Kimoto Junmai Ginjo, an Exceptional Saké
I am always ecstatic when I find an amazing new wine or Saké, a drink that impresses my palate and makes me crave more and more. Earlier this week, I found just such a Saké at a local tasting and it was one of the highlights of my week. Plus, I found a wine store that stocks a fair number of different Sakés. All in all, some great finds.
I have been on the mailing list of Ball Square Fine Wines in Somerville, receiving their newsletters, but had not checked out the store until this week. On Tuesday, they held a Saké tasting and that fact was sufficient to get me to trek out to the store. I'll report further on the store in the near future, and concentrate here on the details of the tasting.
There were four Sakés at the tasting and all were from the Akita Prefecture of Japan. Akita is a northern region and has very cold winters, a perfect place to brew Saké. This region is represented by Linda Noel Kawabata, pictured above, who is the U.S. Brand manager for the Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council (ASPEC), a consortium of five Saké breweries including Hinomaru Jozo, Suzuki Shuzouten, Akita Seishu, Tenju and Ginrin Brewery. Linda was very personable and seemed both passionate and very knowledgeable about Saké.
The first Saké I tasted was the Minato "Harbor" Tsuchizaki Yamahai Futsuu-Shu, ($24.99) made by the Naba Shoten brewery. The brewery uses locally grown rice, a special yeast brand, and water from the nearby Omono River. They chose the name "minato", which means "harbor," due to the local fishermen who have long enjoyed their Saké. Only 33% of the rice, Miyamanishiki, has been polished away and it has a SMV of +1, making it slightly sweet.
This Saké had an earthy smell, likely due to the Yamahai brewing method. I actually found it to be dry, and not really sweet, though that might also be due to its high acidity. It was full bodied with a wild flavor, probably not something that would appeal to a person new to Saké. But if you already enjoy it, then this would likely appeal to you. It could easily stand up to heartier foods, or maybe something with a gamier flavor, like lamb or wild boar.
Next up was the Dewatsuru Habataki Junmai Ginjo ($31.99), made by the Akita Seishu brewery. The brewery's philosophy is "Good harmony makes good saké." They try to rely on local ingredients whenever possible. 45% of the rice, Akinosei, has been polished away (qualifying it as a ginjo) and it has a SMV of +5, making it a dry Saké.
I found it to have a mild nose, only a slight aroma of steamed rice. Its taste was also mild and smooth, with a bit of minerality. It was good though not impressive, but it should appeal to those new to Saké. It did pair very well though with some creamy goat cheese, and might make a nice pairing for other creamy cheese, or light seafood dishes.
The final two Sakés were produced by the Hinomaru Jozo Brewery and the owner, Jouji Sato (pictured above), was present to showcase two of his products. Though he did not speak English fluently, and we needed a translator for some matters, his charisma and passion were obvious. You couldn't help but like Mr. Sato.
The Hinomaru brewery was founded in 1689 so it has a rich, vibrant history. It is a small, very traditional brewery. The brewery took its name from the family crest of the ruling Satake clan: a folding fan with a hinomaru ("sun") design. They are the only ones permitted to use the "Hinomaru" name, which is also the name of Japan’s national flag. Mr. Sato, who used to work in banking, assumed control of the brewery upon his father's death, taking over the family business. The brewery's philosophy is to make “the truest of the true” Saké.
Their Toji, the Saké brew master, is Ryoji Takahashi, who has held that position for over twenty years and he brings extensive experience and knowledge to the brewery. Despite all of his experience, he still believes that “mastery comes slowly and patiently, one year by one year by one year over a lifetime commitment to the craft.”
One of their more unusual brewing techniques is that they age their Saké in the bottles, usually for about a year. There are few, if any, other breweries which do this. According to Mr. Sato, “..the bottle aging prevents oxidation and flavor loss, and preserves our exceptional quality.” Their brand name, “Manabito,” is taken from a local mountain that overlooks the fields where the Saké rice is grown. It is also a word that means a person who is "true blue."
I initially tasted their Manabito Kimoto Junmai Ginjo ($21.99/300ml) and it was amazing, immediately impressing me. It is simply one of the best Sakés I have tasted in quite some time. 45% of the rice, Takane Monori, has been polished away (qualifying it as a ginjo) and it has a SMV of +5, making it a dry Saké. It is also a Kimoto, meaning it is brewed through a very traditional, laborious, and risky method. Most Saké brewed in this method has an earthy, funky flavor.
Its nose though really lacked any earthiness, and had more of a subtle fruitiness and slight rice aroma. From my first sip, this Saké seduced my palate with its complex, rich and smooth taste that possessed only hints of earthiness. It had good acidity, a lengthy finish and was very well balanced. It was very different from any previous Kimoto I have tasted, being much mellower. This Saké should please anyone, whether you already love Saké or not. Because of its richness, this would pair well with heavier foods, from fried foods to fatty meats. I cannot recommend this Saké enough and I made sure to buy several bottles. It was such an exceptional brew and at this price, it is a very good value too.
The final Saké of the evening was the Manabito Junmai Daiginjo ($24.99/300ml). 50% of the rice, Miyamanishiki, has been polished away (qualifying it as a daiginjo) and it has a SMV of +3, making it a slightly dry Saké. This was a very elegant Saké with a more floral nose, as well as some floral accents on the palate along with subtle fruit flavors. A smooth drink with a lengthy finish, this is a Saké to slowly sip over dinner, such as light seafood. I bought a few bottles of this as well.
If you can't make it to Ball Square Fine Wines to buy these Sakés, then you should know they are imported and distributed in the U.S. by Winebow. At the tasting, representing Winebow, was Claudio LoCascio, the Brand Manager for their Saké portfolio. If nothing else, you need to taste the Manabito Kimoto Junmai Ginjo. I will be sure to keep some of it stocked in my own cellar.
I have been on the mailing list of Ball Square Fine Wines in Somerville, receiving their newsletters, but had not checked out the store until this week. On Tuesday, they held a Saké tasting and that fact was sufficient to get me to trek out to the store. I'll report further on the store in the near future, and concentrate here on the details of the tasting.
There were four Sakés at the tasting and all were from the Akita Prefecture of Japan. Akita is a northern region and has very cold winters, a perfect place to brew Saké. This region is represented by Linda Noel Kawabata, pictured above, who is the U.S. Brand manager for the Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council (ASPEC), a consortium of five Saké breweries including Hinomaru Jozo, Suzuki Shuzouten, Akita Seishu, Tenju and Ginrin Brewery. Linda was very personable and seemed both passionate and very knowledgeable about Saké.The first Saké I tasted was the Minato "Harbor" Tsuchizaki Yamahai Futsuu-Shu, ($24.99) made by the Naba Shoten brewery. The brewery uses locally grown rice, a special yeast brand, and water from the nearby Omono River. They chose the name "minato", which means "harbor," due to the local fishermen who have long enjoyed their Saké. Only 33% of the rice, Miyamanishiki, has been polished away and it has a SMV of +1, making it slightly sweet.
This Saké had an earthy smell, likely due to the Yamahai brewing method. I actually found it to be dry, and not really sweet, though that might also be due to its high acidity. It was full bodied with a wild flavor, probably not something that would appeal to a person new to Saké. But if you already enjoy it, then this would likely appeal to you. It could easily stand up to heartier foods, or maybe something with a gamier flavor, like lamb or wild boar.
Next up was the Dewatsuru Habataki Junmai Ginjo ($31.99), made by the Akita Seishu brewery. The brewery's philosophy is "Good harmony makes good saké." They try to rely on local ingredients whenever possible. 45% of the rice, Akinosei, has been polished away (qualifying it as a ginjo) and it has a SMV of +5, making it a dry Saké.
I found it to have a mild nose, only a slight aroma of steamed rice. Its taste was also mild and smooth, with a bit of minerality. It was good though not impressive, but it should appeal to those new to Saké. It did pair very well though with some creamy goat cheese, and might make a nice pairing for other creamy cheese, or light seafood dishes.
The final two Sakés were produced by the Hinomaru Jozo Brewery and the owner, Jouji Sato (pictured above), was present to showcase two of his products. Though he did not speak English fluently, and we needed a translator for some matters, his charisma and passion were obvious. You couldn't help but like Mr. Sato.The Hinomaru brewery was founded in 1689 so it has a rich, vibrant history. It is a small, very traditional brewery. The brewery took its name from the family crest of the ruling Satake clan: a folding fan with a hinomaru ("sun") design. They are the only ones permitted to use the "Hinomaru" name, which is also the name of Japan’s national flag. Mr. Sato, who used to work in banking, assumed control of the brewery upon his father's death, taking over the family business. The brewery's philosophy is to make “the truest of the true” Saké.
Their Toji, the Saké brew master, is Ryoji Takahashi, who has held that position for over twenty years and he brings extensive experience and knowledge to the brewery. Despite all of his experience, he still believes that “mastery comes slowly and patiently, one year by one year by one year over a lifetime commitment to the craft.”
One of their more unusual brewing techniques is that they age their Saké in the bottles, usually for about a year. There are few, if any, other breweries which do this. According to Mr. Sato, “..the bottle aging prevents oxidation and flavor loss, and preserves our exceptional quality.” Their brand name, “Manabito,” is taken from a local mountain that overlooks the fields where the Saké rice is grown. It is also a word that means a person who is "true blue."
I initially tasted their Manabito Kimoto Junmai Ginjo ($21.99/300ml) and it was amazing, immediately impressing me. It is simply one of the best Sakés I have tasted in quite some time. 45% of the rice, Takane Monori, has been polished away (qualifying it as a ginjo) and it has a SMV of +5, making it a dry Saké. It is also a Kimoto, meaning it is brewed through a very traditional, laborious, and risky method. Most Saké brewed in this method has an earthy, funky flavor.
Its nose though really lacked any earthiness, and had more of a subtle fruitiness and slight rice aroma. From my first sip, this Saké seduced my palate with its complex, rich and smooth taste that possessed only hints of earthiness. It had good acidity, a lengthy finish and was very well balanced. It was very different from any previous Kimoto I have tasted, being much mellower. This Saké should please anyone, whether you already love Saké or not. Because of its richness, this would pair well with heavier foods, from fried foods to fatty meats. I cannot recommend this Saké enough and I made sure to buy several bottles. It was such an exceptional brew and at this price, it is a very good value too.
The final Saké of the evening was the Manabito Junmai Daiginjo ($24.99/300ml). 50% of the rice, Miyamanishiki, has been polished away (qualifying it as a daiginjo) and it has a SMV of +3, making it a slightly dry Saké. This was a very elegant Saké with a more floral nose, as well as some floral accents on the palate along with subtle fruit flavors. A smooth drink with a lengthy finish, this is a Saké to slowly sip over dinner, such as light seafood. I bought a few bottles of this as well.
If you can't make it to Ball Square Fine Wines to buy these Sakés, then you should know they are imported and distributed in the U.S. by Winebow. At the tasting, representing Winebow, was Claudio LoCascio, the Brand Manager for their Saké portfolio. If nothing else, you need to taste the Manabito Kimoto Junmai Ginjo. I will be sure to keep some of it stocked in my own cellar.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Troquet: All Bases Covered
For unknown reasons, Troquet remains in the shadows of Boston's culinary scene. But for those in the know, it is a shining jewel, providing fine food, wine and dessert. It has all your bases covered under one roof. And it continues to receive my highest recommendation.
I have been to Troquet numerous times, and most recently attended a media dinner there which only further solidified my opinion about this excellent restaurant. Jackie of the Leather District Gourmet has already posted her own opinion of Troquet and it is well worth reading.
There are several reasons why Troquet is a compelling restaurant. Executive Chef Scott Hebert creates delicious and innovative food. For example, he is the only chef I know of in the Boston area making a sublime lamb bacon. Owner Chris Campbell has created an extensive, intriguing and very reasonably priced wine list. The wine prices are some of the best you will find at any Boston restaurant. Pastry Chef Sarah Woodfine produces amazing and creative desserts. Her seasonal souffles are superb. Plus service is excellent.
But when the best Boston restaurants are discussed, Troquet often seems excluded from the talk. It is puzzling to me, but that simply means it is more of a hidden gem. If you have never been there, you must visit and check out their excellent cuisine and wine.
The media dinner began with a glass of NV Ruinart Rose, a delicious bubbly that was not overly sweet and had a nice fruity taste, which was paired with a Scallop Ceviche topped with Spoonbill caviar. A nice presentation with tender scallops, a pleasant citrus flavor and a slight saltiness from the caviar. A light and clean dish which was a perfect start to the meal.
Next up was a New Zealand Langoustine wrapped in Brik dough atop mango curry and Thai basil. This was a tasty dish, with a thin, crisp wrapping around the langoustine and a more sweet taste to the sauce. The wine pairing was a 2006 Rauscher-Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett but I did not think it went as well as it could with the dish. The Riesling had pleasant citrus flavors and was slightly sweet. It was a good wine but I think it would have paired better with a spicier dish rather than the langoustine.
The Branzino, European seabass, was stuffed with Sicilian olives and sat atop spaghetti squash. A delicious, tender piece of fish with a layer of crisp skin and some salty/earthy flavors from the olives. The wine pairing was the excellent 2008 Les Chanteaux Blanc Chenin Blanc, a French wine from the Loire Valley. This Chenin had delicious fruit, plenty of acidity, and a bit of minerality. It had a lengthy, satisfying finish and plenty of character. This would be a perfect choice with many types of seafood and other light dishes.
Our next course was exceptional with a perfect wine pairing. The Baked Rigatoni came with wild boar, porcini mushrooms, parmesan foam and shaved white truffles. Rich, flavorful and earthy, this was a dish to slowly savor every wonderful bite. Everything from the pasta to boar was cooked perfectly, and all of the ingredients complemented each other. What could make this dish even better? Only a killer wine like the 1995 Louis Latour Chambertin Grand Cru Cuvée Héritiers Burgundy. A fine Burgundy is such a great wine anyways, and it just accompanied this dish so well. Sublime and complex, this wine was extremely satisfying.
The slow roasted Vermont Lamb Saddle with lamb bacon, lamb jus with Niçoise jus, fava beans and pearl barley was another amazing course. The lamb was tender, flavorful and cooked just right while the lamb bacon was exceptional, as usual. I am a huge fan of lamb and this dish was one of the better ones I have tasted in some time. Once again, the wine pairing was perfect, this time with a 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle. This Rhone wine was smooth, complex and with just the right combination of fruit, spice and earthiness to complement the lamb.
Next up was a Cheese Course, a cheese cart being brought out and we were able to select a few of the available selections. Accompanying the cheese was the 1927 Alvear Pedro Ximenez Sherry, a fine choice with delicious nutty flavors and only a mild sweetness. The cheeses I tried, which I can't recall their exact names, were all delicious, especially a triple creme. I can enjoy a cheese course as much as a dessert course, but at Troquet I can never skip dessert.
For dessert, everyone was brought a different dish, and mine, pictured above, was a version of Bread Pudding. You can see the amazing presentation of this dish, with fresh fruit, home made ice cream, and more. An absolutely delicious dessert, with lots of flavors that all blended together very well. I have high expectations from Pastry Chef Woodfine and she has yet to disappoint. The wine pairing for dessert was an Inniskillin Ice Wine Riesling, a sweet dessert wine with enough acidity so as to not be cloying.
I was thoroughly sated at the end of the dinner, just so much good food. Service was excellent and my dining companions and I had engaged in some fun and interesting conversation. Dinner only cemented my thoughts about Troquet and you owe it to yourself to check out this fine restaurant. And make sure to stay for dessert.
Troquet
140 Boylston Street
Boston, MA
Phone: 617-695-9463
I have been to Troquet numerous times, and most recently attended a media dinner there which only further solidified my opinion about this excellent restaurant. Jackie of the Leather District Gourmet has already posted her own opinion of Troquet and it is well worth reading.
There are several reasons why Troquet is a compelling restaurant. Executive Chef Scott Hebert creates delicious and innovative food. For example, he is the only chef I know of in the Boston area making a sublime lamb bacon. Owner Chris Campbell has created an extensive, intriguing and very reasonably priced wine list. The wine prices are some of the best you will find at any Boston restaurant. Pastry Chef Sarah Woodfine produces amazing and creative desserts. Her seasonal souffles are superb. Plus service is excellent.
But when the best Boston restaurants are discussed, Troquet often seems excluded from the talk. It is puzzling to me, but that simply means it is more of a hidden gem. If you have never been there, you must visit and check out their excellent cuisine and wine.
The media dinner began with a glass of NV Ruinart Rose, a delicious bubbly that was not overly sweet and had a nice fruity taste, which was paired with a Scallop Ceviche topped with Spoonbill caviar. A nice presentation with tender scallops, a pleasant citrus flavor and a slight saltiness from the caviar. A light and clean dish which was a perfect start to the meal.
Next up was a New Zealand Langoustine wrapped in Brik dough atop mango curry and Thai basil. This was a tasty dish, with a thin, crisp wrapping around the langoustine and a more sweet taste to the sauce. The wine pairing was a 2006 Rauscher-Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett but I did not think it went as well as it could with the dish. The Riesling had pleasant citrus flavors and was slightly sweet. It was a good wine but I think it would have paired better with a spicier dish rather than the langoustine.
The Branzino, European seabass, was stuffed with Sicilian olives and sat atop spaghetti squash. A delicious, tender piece of fish with a layer of crisp skin and some salty/earthy flavors from the olives. The wine pairing was the excellent 2008 Les Chanteaux Blanc Chenin Blanc, a French wine from the Loire Valley. This Chenin had delicious fruit, plenty of acidity, and a bit of minerality. It had a lengthy, satisfying finish and plenty of character. This would be a perfect choice with many types of seafood and other light dishes.
Our next course was exceptional with a perfect wine pairing. The Baked Rigatoni came with wild boar, porcini mushrooms, parmesan foam and shaved white truffles. Rich, flavorful and earthy, this was a dish to slowly savor every wonderful bite. Everything from the pasta to boar was cooked perfectly, and all of the ingredients complemented each other. What could make this dish even better? Only a killer wine like the 1995 Louis Latour Chambertin Grand Cru Cuvée Héritiers Burgundy. A fine Burgundy is such a great wine anyways, and it just accompanied this dish so well. Sublime and complex, this wine was extremely satisfying.
The slow roasted Vermont Lamb Saddle with lamb bacon, lamb jus with Niçoise jus, fava beans and pearl barley was another amazing course. The lamb was tender, flavorful and cooked just right while the lamb bacon was exceptional, as usual. I am a huge fan of lamb and this dish was one of the better ones I have tasted in some time. Once again, the wine pairing was perfect, this time with a 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle. This Rhone wine was smooth, complex and with just the right combination of fruit, spice and earthiness to complement the lamb. 
Next up was a Cheese Course, a cheese cart being brought out and we were able to select a few of the available selections. Accompanying the cheese was the 1927 Alvear Pedro Ximenez Sherry, a fine choice with delicious nutty flavors and only a mild sweetness. The cheeses I tried, which I can't recall their exact names, were all delicious, especially a triple creme. I can enjoy a cheese course as much as a dessert course, but at Troquet I can never skip dessert.For dessert, everyone was brought a different dish, and mine, pictured above, was a version of Bread Pudding. You can see the amazing presentation of this dish, with fresh fruit, home made ice cream, and more. An absolutely delicious dessert, with lots of flavors that all blended together very well. I have high expectations from Pastry Chef Woodfine and she has yet to disappoint. The wine pairing for dessert was an Inniskillin Ice Wine Riesling, a sweet dessert wine with enough acidity so as to not be cloying.
I was thoroughly sated at the end of the dinner, just so much good food. Service was excellent and my dining companions and I had engaged in some fun and interesting conversation. Dinner only cemented my thoughts about Troquet and you owe it to yourself to check out this fine restaurant. And make sure to stay for dessert.
Troquet
140 Boylston Street
Boston, MA
Phone: 617-695-9463
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Six Inexpensive Pasternak Wines
On a recent Thursday evening, when my regular group of wine buddies got together, we tasted six wines I had received as samples from Pasternak Wine Imports. Pasternak is a national importer of wines and spirits from France, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile, and California. The company is jointly owned by James Galtieri (President and CEO), and Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite).The six wines were all inexpensive, costing no more than $12.99, so they had the potential to be value wines. Of these wines, three appealed to almost all of the tasters. Of the other three, two were generally disliked by all and one had a divided opinion.
The most expensive wine of the evening was the 2007 Dievole Pinocchio ($12.99), a wine produced in Sicily and made from 100% Nero d'Avola. It sees no oak and only has an alcohol content of 13%. Unfortunately, it was also a wine that almost everyone disliked. It had an overwhelming candy-like smell, several thinking it smelled like cotton candy. That overly sweet smell carried through in the taste as well, making it seem like liquid candy and just not too appealing.
The 2007 Les Deux Rives Corbieres Rouge ($9.99) was produced in Corbieries, France, and is a blend of 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, and 10% Carignan. This wine had a sour, off-putting smell though it did not carry through on the palate. The taste was ok, but nothing special. It was a rather forgettable wine, and not something my buddies would buy if they had a choice.
The 2008 Vina Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc ($11.49) was produced in the Casablanca Valley, Chile and is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Opinions were divided on this wine, but as several of my buddies really don't like white wines much, I was not surprised by those who did not care for it. This wine sees no oak and has an alcohol content of 13%. It had an intense grapefruit smell with some lemony notes. On the palate, you get both the grapefruit and lemon, as well as some minerality. This crisp wine lacks the grassiness of some other Sauvignon Blancs. I think it was a pleasant wine, and would be a good wine with seafood or light chicken dishes.
The 2007 Chateau De Jau Jaja de Jau Syrah ($8.99) is from the Roussillon region of France, and is made from 100% Syrah. This simple wine pleased most of my buddies. It had a pleasant red fruit and spice nose, and was a smooth, easy drinking wine. Besides the red fruit and light spice flavors, there was a slight herbal taste too. A step above the wines at this price point, I would recommend this wine.
The 2008 Terracita Tempranillo ($8.99) is a Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla from Spain. It was another wine that pleased most of my wine buddies. It had more cherry and raspberry flavors with hints of vanilla. The tannins were very mild, making this an easy-drinking wine and a good value for the price. A nice choice to pair with everything from pizza to burgers.
The 2007 Bodega La Rural Trumpeter Malbec ($11.99) is from Mendoza, Argentina, and is made from 100% Malbec. It undergoes about seven months of oak aging, 20% new American, 20% new French, and 60% second and third use American. This wine was the big winner of the night. It was dark red in color with an intense nose of black fruits and hints of spice. On the palate, there was plenty of concentrated fruit, including ripe plum, blueberry, and black cherry. Tannins were restrained and the finish was long and satisfying. Plenty of character for this price makes this an excellent value wine.
Stoneham Sun: Fresh Meat & More
My new column of "A Passionate Foodie" can be found in the November 11 issue of the Stoneham Sun newspaper. This is a weekly column that concentrates on reviews of local restaurants though it also sometimes touches on other food and wine topics.
The new column has been published today and will be available online soon. The new article is a review of Olde Redding Butcher Shoppe, a new butcher shop in Reading. Find fresh meats, deli meats, sandwiches, soups, salads, and prepared foods. A local shop, run by local residents, which promises excellent customer service.
If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.
Dine with passion
The new column has been published today and will be available online soon. The new article is a review of Olde Redding Butcher Shoppe, a new butcher shop in Reading. Find fresh meats, deli meats, sandwiches, soups, salads, and prepared foods. A local shop, run by local residents, which promises excellent customer service.
If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.
Dine with passion
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Gaylord India Restaurant: Las Vegas
Prior to seeing Penn & Teller at the Rio Hotel & Casino (which turned out to be a superb show), we decided to grab a bit to eat and chose Gaylord India Restaurant, which is located in the Rio. Once you walk past the lucky elephants, their trunks raised, you enter an elegant yet casual restaurant.As we perused the menu, we received a couple complimentary papadums, crispy spiced lentil wafers. The menu is extensive with plenty of the usual Indian dishes, from pakora to vindaloo, from tandoori to biriyani. Most of the entrees range from $20-$30, making their prices more expensive than usual for such places. Even the appetizers seem a bit more expensive than usual.
We began with an appetizer, the Lamb Samosa (2 for $9.95), a crisp turnover stuffed with spiced ground lamb. This seemed to be the freshest samosa I have ever had, and it was absolutely delicious with plenty of meat and a tasty blend of spices. The turnover was crisp and crunchy, without being overcooked. An excellent start to our dinner and a dish I would highly recommend.
The first entree was the Chicken Pasanda ($22.95), boneless chicken pieces in a mild cashew cream sauce. There was plenty of chicken, which was very tender and moist. It almost fell apart on its own. The cream sauce was very good, creamy with only a mild nuttiness to it and some restrained spices. The second entree was the Chicken Tikka Masala ($22.95), mesquite-broiled chicken in a mild tomato-butter sauce. The chicken was as good as in the Pasanda, and the sauce was also mild and restrained, with lots of subtle flavors and a nice creaminess.
I love Indian breads, and they are one of my favorite items whenever I go to an Indian restaurant. We ordered a Garlic Nan ($5.50) and Paratha ($4.20). I enjoyed the Nan, which had plenty of garlic, but the Paratha was a bit disappointing, seeming to be a bit overcooked from what I usually get elsewhere.
Service was excellent. Overall, the food was very good, though I am not sure worth the extra price. But it is in a Vegas hotel which could explain the higher cost. If you don't mind the extra cost, then you should enjoy your meal here.
Gaylord India Restaurant
3700 W Flamingo Rd
Las Vegas, NV
Phone: (702) 777-2277
Monday, November 9, 2009
Rant: Say Hello to Your Meat
If you only shop at large supermarkets, you may feel very distant from the meat you purchase. You may choose a wrapped package of meat, without thinking much about where it originated, without thinking about the animal from where the meat came. Is that though what you want? Do you really want to maintain a significant distance between you and the animal?
Would it bother you to know the name of the animal you were about to eat? Would it dismay you to dine on "Francine" the lamb or "Arnold" the pig? It does not bother me in the least. In fact, I rather like knowing such details about the animal. I think it creates a deeper connection between me and the meat, helping me better understand what I am eating.
In fact, I think it would be better for everyone who eats meat to get closer to the source, to understand exactly where their food comes from. Visit a farm, spend time with a butcher, chat with a chef. Do something to learn about your meat, to realize that it does not come from the back of a grocery store but actually derives from livestock. It is nothing to fear or be ashamed about.
If you are going to eat meat, to enjoy being a carnivore, then don't shy away from getting closer to the source. Educate yourself. Make that connection and learn how to appreciate your meat even more.
What do you think?
Would it bother you to know the name of the animal you were about to eat? Would it dismay you to dine on "Francine" the lamb or "Arnold" the pig? It does not bother me in the least. In fact, I rather like knowing such details about the animal. I think it creates a deeper connection between me and the meat, helping me better understand what I am eating.
In fact, I think it would be better for everyone who eats meat to get closer to the source, to understand exactly where their food comes from. Visit a farm, spend time with a butcher, chat with a chef. Do something to learn about your meat, to realize that it does not come from the back of a grocery store but actually derives from livestock. It is nothing to fear or be ashamed about.
If you are going to eat meat, to enjoy being a carnivore, then don't shy away from getting closer to the source. Educate yourself. Make that connection and learn how to appreciate your meat even more.
What do you think?
Sportello: More Quick Bites
Since my first visit to Sportello, I have dined there a couple more times and the food has been equally as delicious. Their new fall menu has plenty of interesting choices, much to tempt your palate.Pictured above, the Chestnut Bigoli ($15) is made with lobster, sage, and brown butter. The pasta, cooked properly al dente, had a nice nutty and slightly sweet taste. There were chestnut pieces in the bowl too, adding to the overall nutty taste. There were five pieces of lobster in the bowl and were complemented by the brown butter and chestnut flavors. This bigoli has lots of potential and I could see it used in various dishes, maybe with a wild boar ragu or duck confit.
The Anson Mills Polenta Rustica ($14) with veal ragout and parmigiano-reggiano is the perfect remedy for a cold day. It is an ideal comfort food, a stick-to-your-ribs meal. You get a large bowl of hot polenta, the consistency of Cream of Wheat, with veal ragout in the center of the bowl, lots of tender and flavorful meat. The rich corn flavor is complemented by the ragout, which you can swirl into the polenta, mixing it up.
I should also give a shout-out to their Pumpkin Whoopie Pies, served at their bakery. The pumpkin cakes had a delicious flavor without overdoing the pumpkin taste. Pumpkin can sometimes be too overwhelming in a dish, but these cakes had just the right amount of pumpkin and spice. There was a creamy, vanilla filling between the cakes and I very much enjoyed this dessert.
Service was excellent on all of my visits. I continue to be impressed with Sportello and definitely recommend it to my readers.
Sportello
348 Congress St.
Boston, MA
Phone: 617-737-1234
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Raku: Las Vegas
The Vegas restaurants on the Strip get almost of the attention and publicity. Yet there are hidden jewels that deserve far more attention than they receive. Yet you may never learn about those hidden treasures unless you have inside information.I have dined at several Japanese restaurants in Vegas, including a few of the high-end ones. But when talking to a few Vegas residents, eager foodies, they mentioned an exceptional Japanese restaurant that was located off the strip. A small place but with very authentic and delicious food. Raku!
On Spring Mountain Road in Las Vegas, there is a lengthy section of Asian stores, businesses and restaurants. If you are seeking a restaurant, it can be intimidating because there are so many options, so many different cuisines. It seems like there must be dozens and dozens of Asian restaurants in this area. But which restaurants are the best? Raku is located in this region, and I can now attest that it has to be one of the best Japanese restaurants.
Raku (which literally translates as "enjoyment") is located on West Spring Mountain Road, in a strip of stores and other restaurants. There is nothing on the outside to distinguish it from the hundreds of other small Asian restaurants in this area. It is a place you either stumble into by a fortunate accident, or purposefully seek out based on someone's recommendation.
Raku is primarily a robata, charcoal grill, restaurant, using the special binchotan, a traditional Japanese charcoal. It burns at a higher temperature than regular charcoal, and also contains less moisture. Binchotan is supposed to produce excellent results. The restaurant aims to use high end ingredients, such as Kobe Beef from Oregon, free-range organic chicken from California, Kurobuta Pork from Iowa, and fish from the Tsukiji Market in Japan.
It is a small place, with a tiny counter, and if you try to go there on a weekend, you probably should make reservations. It emanates a casual and homey ambiance, a fun place to dine and drink.
Their food menu includes appetizers (cold & hot), salads, grilled items, oden, and rice/noodle/soup dishes. There is plenty of variety, and they usually have daily specials, which may include some sushi dishes and which concentrates on what is fresh and in season. Prices are generally very reasonable, such as most grilled items from $1.50-$9.00. This is not a place that is going to break your wallet, unless you go overboard ordering Saké (like I did).
I ordered a diverse selection of dishes, and essentially everything was delicious. The Juicy Deep Fried Chicken ($8) was very good, with moist, tender meat surrounded by a crisp, flaky crust. It was a very good start to the meal.
The Crispy Fried Shrimp ($6) were also very good, and you could actually eat the entire shrimp, shell, eyes and all. Kind of like soft shell crab. The shrimp were good-sized, with plenty of meat inside the shells.
I tried the Oden ($3) with a potato and boiled egg. Oden is a traditional Japanese winter dish, a soy-flavored sashi broth with a choice of added ingredients. On the menu, there are about fifteen different items you can select to add to your oden, everything from soft fish cake to meat tendon. The broth was delicious, very flavorful and light, and it certainly would help warm you on a cold night. The broth is not overpowering and I can understand how many different items could go into the broth and taste good.
The top dish above contains Pork Ear ($2.50), which might have been the dish I liked the least of the evening, though it had it good points. The outside of the pork ear was very good, crisp and meaty, but there was an inner layer of tough fat/gristle, which was just too chewy. I just ate around that part. The bottom dish above was grilled Unagi ($32), flown in fresh from Japan. This was a special of the evening (and I had not asked about its price before ordering). It was exceptional, light, flakey and very tasty. It sure seemed very fresh. It may have been pricey but you did receive plenty of eel, about enough for four orders of sushi.
The grilled Kobe Beef Outside Skirt with Garlic ($6) was very good, tender meat with lots of oungent garlic. A nice crisp exterior to the juicy meat but with all the garlic, let's hope you are not there on a first date. I did not get photos of some of the additional dishes, as I was just too involved in the meal. The grilled Potato with Corn ($3), was a core of mashed potatoes surrounded by grilled corn kernels. A nice type of comfort food. Who doesn't like the flavor of roasted corn? The grilled Kurobuta Pork Cheek ($2.50) was superb, such a tender piece of crispy pork. The Grilled Duck with Balsamic Soy Sauce ($4) was another very tasty dish as was the Butter Sautéed Scallop with Soy Sauce ($7). Everything seemed so fresh, and the meats were cooked just perfectly. Moist and tender, with crispy exteriors.
Besides their compelling food menu, they also have an interesting Saké list. The list has Saké by the glass, small bottles, and regular-sized bottles. I ordered the Shichihonnyari Junmai (10oz bottle/$27), Isojiman Junmai Ginjo (glass/$14), and Tamanohikari Junmai Daiginjo (10 oz. bottle/$32). All were very pleasing, as well as very different. The bottles were kept chilled in a bucket of ice, a nice extra. I think they paired well with my dinner and I could have sat there all night, sipping Saké. Service was excellent and the meal was served at a leisurely pace. Food was delicious as was the Saké. This was certainly one of the best Japanese meals I have had in Vegas, and I highly recommend this restaurant. It certainly deserves far more publicity than it receives, though that might make it far more difficult to get a reservation. I will return here the next time I visit Vegas.
Taza Chocolate Open House: Dec.5
If you love chocolate, then you should visit the Taza Chocolate factory in Somerville for their Open House on December 5, from 10am-6pm. I have previously toured their artisan facility and was impressed with what I saw. The upcoming Open House will be a great opportunity for my readers to see what Taza is doing, as well as to taste some of their unique chocolate.
The factory tours are free and open to the public. "Get acquainted with our candy-apple red Barth Sirocco roaster, learn what a winnowing machine does, and examine the hand-dressed grooves in the millstones of our vintage Mexican molinos. Or skip the tour and take your time tasting every one of our chocolates. We’ll also have plenty of tasty hot chocolate on hand made with our own Taza Chocolate Mexicano discs."
The factory is small and they anticipate a high turnout. Because they can only accommodate a certain number of people per tour, they recommend that you come early or late in the day if you’re unable to wait. Families and children are welcome, but are encouraged to come early so as to avoid the crowds.
Elsewhere in their buildingm Peter Rinnig of QRST’s will be screenprinting custom t-shirts for visitors. And Shelley Barendes will spell out the art of letterpress, hand-printing creative designs on 100-year-old machines.
Taza Chocolate
561 Windsor Street
Somerville, MA
Phone: 617-623-0804
The factory tours are free and open to the public. "Get acquainted with our candy-apple red Barth Sirocco roaster, learn what a winnowing machine does, and examine the hand-dressed grooves in the millstones of our vintage Mexican molinos. Or skip the tour and take your time tasting every one of our chocolates. We’ll also have plenty of tasty hot chocolate on hand made with our own Taza Chocolate Mexicano discs."
The factory is small and they anticipate a high turnout. Because they can only accommodate a certain number of people per tour, they recommend that you come early or late in the day if you’re unable to wait. Families and children are welcome, but are encouraged to come early so as to avoid the crowds.
Elsewhere in their buildingm Peter Rinnig of QRST’s will be screenprinting custom t-shirts for visitors. And Shelley Barendes will spell out the art of letterpress, hand-printing creative designs on 100-year-old machines.
Taza Chocolate
561 Windsor Street
Somerville, MA
Phone: 617-623-0804
Saturday, November 7, 2009
StarChefs Rising Star Revue: Foie Gras & Donuts
Seared Foie Gras and Doughnuts! A pairing of two of my favorite foods. That decadent dish stood out to me amidst over a dozen other delicious items. Yet that is also not to slight all of the other treasures I found at the recent StarChefs Rising Star Revue.
I previously mentioned this event, and in brief, 14 of Boston's chefs, pastry chefs, sommeliers, and mixologists received a Rising Star award. These individuls are thought to have the "attributes that make us believe they will be the future leaders of the country's culinary scene." Each of the award receipients prepared a special dish, cocktail or wine for the event, and attendees had the opportunity to taste all of these fine items. Plus, while tasting the food and drink, you got a chance to speak with the chefs too.
It was also a fun social event, and I got to mingle, chat and meet several other local food media people, including Jackie of Leather District Gourmet, Paul of BostonChefs, Lynne of How2Heroes, Aaron of Eat Boston, and Patrick of Groupon Boston. It is always a pleasure to converse with such people about food and wine, as well as other stimulating topics.
I'll list some of the special highlights of the evening, though understand these are not the only items I enjoyed:
Seared Foie Gras and Doughnuts with Rhubarb created by Chef Wil Gilson of Garden at the Cellar. A silky piece of foie accompanied by a sweet donut hole. An excellent and decadent dish which had me wanting seconds, thirds and more. I have never been to Chef Gilson's restaurant but will make the effort to check it out now.
I finally had the pleasure of meeting Joanne Chang of Flour Bakery and Myers & Chang. We had spoken before on Twitter and by email but had not yet met. It was great to finally meet in person. Plus, she was serving Asian Braised Short Rib Taco with Asian Pear and Sesame-Cilantro Salsa. I have had that taco before at Myers & Chang, and it is delicious, with tender meat and a nice spicy finish to it.
Slow Roasted Leg of Lamb with Lamb-Fennel Sausage was prepared by Chef Jodi Bernhard of Longwood Events. Moist, tender and flavorful meat. I love lamb and this was prepared perfectly.
White Bean Gazpacho prepared by Chef Richard Garcia of Tastings Wine Bar and Bistro at Patriot Place. A creamy and flavorful treat, which also intrigued me sufficiently that I need to check out his restaurant too.
Sommelier Theresa Paopao of Oleana paired the wines for the various dishes, and there were plenty of excellent choices, including the 2004 J. Vidal-Fleury Chateayneuf-du-Pape, 2008 Gurrutxaga Txakoli, Emilio Lustau East India Sherry, Nicolas Feuillate Rose, and 2006 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir.
Mixologist Tom Schlesinger-Guidelli of Craigie on Main created two cocktails, the Camino Cocktail and Northern Lights. The Northern Lights contained Highland Park 12 Year Old Scotch Whiskey, St. Germain, Clear Creek Douglas Fir Eau de Vie, Tiki Bitters, Demerara syrup, lemon juice and orange juice. It had a very intriguing taste, herbal with restrained citrus flavors and a slight hint of smokiness. It was not overly sweet, and was actually refreshing.
Highland Park also had a table where they were pouring their 18 year old Scotch Whiskey. This was an amazing Scotch, incredibly smooth, full of flavor, and with a nice, smoky finish. A perfect sipping Scotch.
If you missed this event, you missed a fascinating and delicious time. Boston possesses some fantastic chefs, sommeliers, and mixologists and these events, which gather together a group of such talented individuals, give proof.
I previously mentioned this event, and in brief, 14 of Boston's chefs, pastry chefs, sommeliers, and mixologists received a Rising Star award. These individuls are thought to have the "attributes that make us believe they will be the future leaders of the country's culinary scene." Each of the award receipients prepared a special dish, cocktail or wine for the event, and attendees had the opportunity to taste all of these fine items. Plus, while tasting the food and drink, you got a chance to speak with the chefs too.
It was also a fun social event, and I got to mingle, chat and meet several other local food media people, including Jackie of Leather District Gourmet, Paul of BostonChefs, Lynne of How2Heroes, Aaron of Eat Boston, and Patrick of Groupon Boston. It is always a pleasure to converse with such people about food and wine, as well as other stimulating topics.
I'll list some of the special highlights of the evening, though understand these are not the only items I enjoyed:
Seared Foie Gras and Doughnuts with Rhubarb created by Chef Wil Gilson of Garden at the Cellar. A silky piece of foie accompanied by a sweet donut hole. An excellent and decadent dish which had me wanting seconds, thirds and more. I have never been to Chef Gilson's restaurant but will make the effort to check it out now.
I finally had the pleasure of meeting Joanne Chang of Flour Bakery and Myers & Chang. We had spoken before on Twitter and by email but had not yet met. It was great to finally meet in person. Plus, she was serving Asian Braised Short Rib Taco with Asian Pear and Sesame-Cilantro Salsa. I have had that taco before at Myers & Chang, and it is delicious, with tender meat and a nice spicy finish to it.
Slow Roasted Leg of Lamb with Lamb-Fennel Sausage was prepared by Chef Jodi Bernhard of Longwood Events. Moist, tender and flavorful meat. I love lamb and this was prepared perfectly.
White Bean Gazpacho prepared by Chef Richard Garcia of Tastings Wine Bar and Bistro at Patriot Place. A creamy and flavorful treat, which also intrigued me sufficiently that I need to check out his restaurant too.
Sommelier Theresa Paopao of Oleana paired the wines for the various dishes, and there were plenty of excellent choices, including the 2004 J. Vidal-Fleury Chateayneuf-du-Pape, 2008 Gurrutxaga Txakoli, Emilio Lustau East India Sherry, Nicolas Feuillate Rose, and 2006 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir.
Mixologist Tom Schlesinger-Guidelli of Craigie on Main created two cocktails, the Camino Cocktail and Northern Lights. The Northern Lights contained Highland Park 12 Year Old Scotch Whiskey, St. Germain, Clear Creek Douglas Fir Eau de Vie, Tiki Bitters, Demerara syrup, lemon juice and orange juice. It had a very intriguing taste, herbal with restrained citrus flavors and a slight hint of smokiness. It was not overly sweet, and was actually refreshing.
Highland Park also had a table where they were pouring their 18 year old Scotch Whiskey. This was an amazing Scotch, incredibly smooth, full of flavor, and with a nice, smoky finish. A perfect sipping Scotch.
If you missed this event, you missed a fascinating and delicious time. Boston possesses some fantastic chefs, sommeliers, and mixologists and these events, which gather together a group of such talented individuals, give proof.
Upcoming Wine Events
I wanted to bring your attention to two interesting wine events that are upcoming.
Central Bottle: November 13, 4pm-8pm
Central Bottle, a new wine store in Central Square, Cambridge, should be opening on November 13. I have previously told you about this upcoming store and I have eagerly been awaiting its opening. They will be having a wine tasting with Mario Zanusso of I Clivi, an excellent winery I have reviewed before. They even currently produce two killer boxed wines.
Wine ConneXtion: November 14, 12pm-3pm:
Wine ConneXtion, a new wine store in North Andover, is having a Grand Opening on November 14, They will be featuring Tom Grella from the Food Network's Next Star series. Tom will be cooking some favorite dishes on site and there will be wines from around the world available for tasting. Check out my review of this wine store. With their incredibly low prices, and about 700 different wines, this is a store to check out.
Central Bottle: November 13, 4pm-8pm
Central Bottle, a new wine store in Central Square, Cambridge, should be opening on November 13. I have previously told you about this upcoming store and I have eagerly been awaiting its opening. They will be having a wine tasting with Mario Zanusso of I Clivi, an excellent winery I have reviewed before. They even currently produce two killer boxed wines.
Wine ConneXtion: November 14, 12pm-3pm:
Wine ConneXtion, a new wine store in North Andover, is having a Grand Opening on November 14, They will be featuring Tom Grella from the Food Network's Next Star series. Tom will be cooking some favorite dishes on site and there will be wines from around the world available for tasting. Check out my review of this wine store. With their incredibly low prices, and about 700 different wines, this is a store to check out.
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